ISSUE 05 - Arteworld: In conversation with Nyheke Lambert & Compass-I.D LTD
Nyheke is highly skilled garment technologist and the founder of Compass-I.D LTD, a bespoke apparel development company, who’s services include consultations, tech packs, digital patterns and much more.
Founding Story: What inspired the creation of Compass-I.D LTD, and how has the company's mission evolved since its inception?
"Compass-I.D LTD was birthed from Nyheke lambert LTD. A manual pattern cutting and sampling home atelier. This was my original company that went under during the pandemic.
Compass offers a newer age way of working utilising the latest technology and software to help streamline a better work flow, also operating as a fully digitally operating company reducing overheads significantly.
What inspired Compass-I.D LTD in particular was the demand for those in need of bespoke clothing or accessories with zero to little knowledge on how to develop a product from ideation through to bulk production using overseas factories.
I saw an opportunity where clients could benefit from having professionals handle this process entirely whilst still being apart of the process and learning the ins and outs throughout the whole process."
"Our focus is to fully support our clients throughout the entire process and give them peace of mind."
Unique Value Proposition: How does Compass-I. D differentiate itself in the bespoke apparel development industry?
"Unlike most companies that have a similar approach when working with overseas factories our focus is the protection of the client’s intellectual property (Patterns) and making sure that they are happy with their product and our service at all times.
All patterns developed with us go through extensive testing, nothing proceeds unless I am happy in some cases overriding the clients request if myself or our senior member Ahmed Maphed feel it is necessary to achieve the best result.
Clients also receive their intellectual property giving them peace of mind knowing that they can if they decided switch or add factories with ease knowing that they will receive the exact same fit avoiding starting from scratch and doing the development and sampling process again. No pattern = No brand.
We also operate with transparency. This is one of the nuances that I feel is necessary to providing a good service. I endeavour to make sure all clients are aware of the complexities within the clothing manufacturing industries and what hurdles they may come across throughout the process.
Moreso the manufacturing side of things. So, we ask that all clients are not so rigid in their approach and to be prepared to pivot where necessary with our guidance. As a fully digital operating company we also have a more relaxed approach to business working around clients i.e. communication during unsocialable hours where necessary."
Service Offerings: Can you elaborate on the range of services you provide, such as consulting, tech packs, Clo3D animations, pattern cutting, sampling, grading, fabric sourcing, and production management?
"We offer a comprehensive range of services tailored for the fashion and apparel industry, focusing on pattern development and pre-production management.
Consultation
I conduct consultations directly, where I assess your objectives and determine if we are a good fit for your project. Following this, I provide ongoing support in construction methods, fabrication and brand identity.
Tech Pack
Our tech pack service includes all the necessary specifications for product design and production, ensuring clear communication between you and manufacturers. This service is exclusively available to clients who use our pattern cutting service.
Pattern Cutting
Myself and senior pattern cutter Ahmed Maphed create precise patterns for garment production using advanced software. With tools like Gerber accumark and Clo3D, we enhance sustainability by allowing you to visualise your product before sampling allowing for changes prior to physical sampling. Reducing the usual repetitive sampling process.
Pre-production sample management
As a product expert, it is my role to oversee the vital sampling phase, facilitating clear communication between the client and the factories, upholding quality control, and addressing any pre-production issues. In addition, I am responsible for managing all technical inquiries and providing support to guide clients in resolving any potential complications in the most effective manner.
Grading
Our senior Ahmed Maphed handles all grading. He converts the base patterns into multiple sizes using digital tools. And UK industry specs unless suggested otherwise. We provide the files to you for easy distribution to factories, ensuring a smooth process.
Sewing Pattern Printing/Plotting Services
We also offer a service for printing/plotting patterns on various materials, with discounts available for multiple patterns and streamlined delivery options.
Our overall goal is to offer a streamlined and helpful experience for clients in navigating the intricacies of fashion production.
We aim to alleviate confusion in the lengthy process and provide assurance that your ideas and designs are being managed by knowledgeable experts who can guide you in the most cost-effective and efficient manner. Attempting to handle this on your own, without industry knowledge, can result in wasted time and money.
Our focus is to fully support our clients throughout the entire process and give them peace of mind."
Clo3D Integration: How has incorporating Clo3D animations enhanced your design and development process?
"Absolute game changer! Not only does this highlight pattern discrepancies, it gives us peace of mind knowing exactly how a style will look and fit. It also gives the client a clear idea, giving them the opportunity to make changes where they feel necessary prior to sampling."
Staying Current: What strategies do you employ to keep up with technological advancements in apparel development?
"The algorithms handle everything! With recommendations from industry professionals and my own experience with technology, I have found adapting to new methods a seamless process. However, understanding the traditional manual approach is essential to fully grasp the concept"
Client Engagement: How do you approach collaborations with clients to ensure their vision is accurately translated into the final product?
"During the early stages, I ask numerous questions in order to thoroughly understand the client's vision. I also recommend a "flash card" style of communication, where they can show me photos or examples of what they want to achieve.
This is especially helpful when the client is not familiar with industry terms. If they are describing a specific trim or fit inspiration, I prefer if they send me photos.
Once I feel confident in my understanding, I provide a final render for the client's approval. No further actions are taken until the client confirms their satisfaction."
Notable Projects: Could you share insights into a particularly challenging or rewarding project you've undertaken?
"Throughout my career, I have had the privilege of working on a variety of projects for high-profile individuals, each with a 24 to 72-hour turnaround time and containing complex designs.
Some notable names on this list include Rough Copy, PAQ, Shadez the Misfit, G FrSH, Aitch, Chipmunk, Kylie Minogue, David Arlo, Chase & Status, Tiwa Savage, Sseg, Kendrick Lamar, Cherelle Skeete, Famous Kid Brick, Paul Carrick Brunson, and Sam Smith.
I have also collaborated with esteemed celebrity stylists such as Charley van purpz, Mariumu Fundi, Zoe Costello, Frank Strachan, Nana Acheampong, Jason Rembert, and Shannon Stokes."
"My true passion lies in the engineering and construction of a product."
Market Trends: What current trends are you observing in the bespoke apparel industry, and how is Compass-I.D adapting to them?
"As a specialist in menswear, I obtain information from social media and fashion- focused blogs, as well as expertise from stylists, to remain updated on current trends.
Presently, there is a growing popularity for oversized attire, where jackets are becoming shorter and wider while bottoms are leaning towards boot cut and flared designs. However, my approach to fashion is more scientific and objective.
My true passion lies in the engineering and construction of a product."
Sustainability: How does Compass-I.D address sustainability within its operations and product offerings?
"Compass-I.D addresses sustainability through several key practices within its operations and product offerings:
Advanced Software Utilisation
By employing cutting-edge tools like Clo3D and Gerber Accumark, Compass-I.D enhances sustainability in design and production. Clo3D allows clients to visualise their products before sampling, reducing waste associated with physical samples and ensuring that the first sample is more likely to meet expectations.
Efficient Production Methods
The use of up-to-date software in pattern cutting and garment production helps streamline processes, reducing material waste and energy consumption. This efficiency not only supports sustainability but also helps clients save time and resources.
Quality Control and Feedback Management
By managing the sample development phase and addressing pre-production feedback, Compass-I.D ensures that products meet quality standards and customer expectations. This focus on quality reduces the likelihood of returns and waste.
Digital Grading
The grading process is conducted digitally, which minimises paper usage and allows for easier adjustments and distributions of patterns. This digital approach supports more sustainable practices in size adjustments and production scaling.
Sewing Pattern Printing/Plotting
The pattern printing and plotting services are designed to minimise waste. By offering discounts for multiple patterns, Compass-I.D encourages clients to consolidate orders, further reducing material consumption.
Overall, Compass-I.D is committed to integrating sustainable practices throughout its services, from design to production where possible, ensuring that both the environment and client needs are prioritised."
Growth Plans: What are your aspirations for Compass-I.D in the next five years?
"Compass-I.D has exciting future plans aimed at expanding its offerings and supporting the fashion industry:
The Catalogue (2025)
We will launch a diverse catalogue featuring over 300 pattern styles available for personal or commercial use. Customers will have the option to purchase readymade patterns or customise the ready-made patterns (at a fee) with the option to have these digitally or physically printed.
Compass Academy (2030)
We plan to establish a comprehensive digital school focused on teaching the art of clothing production. Our courses will cover essential topics such as Gerber Accumark, Clo3D, tech pack development, sampling versus production, sewing techniques, and industry terminology. Our aim is to empower emerging talents to effectively communicate their ideas to ateliers and manufacturers, bridging a critical knowledge gap not typically addressed in fashion schools.
Through these initiatives, Compass-I.D is dedicated to enhancing access to resources and education in the fashion industry while fostering creativity and innovation."
Innovation Goals: Are there any upcoming innovations or expansions in services that clients can look forward to?
"Yes, I have recognised the potential within the digital space to tap into the gaming industry. This will involve providing clothing options to charter designers for their characters, which can be accessed through our catalogue or bespoke-made.
Additionally, there will be an option for these digital assets to be produced in real life. To start, we are looking to collaborate with early adopters to gain valuable insights into the necessary specifications for this process."
Check out more of Nyheke's work using the links below:
Instagram: @compassidentity